Monday, September 21, 2009

A Grand Spectacle Frozen In Time


Posted by Pete Hill

Everything is exactly the way you remember it. The horse-drawn carriages still idle by the awning, although now they share the driveway with pedicabs. The grand and goofy topiary circus animals still loom over the patio. The psychedelic funhouse hall of mirrors and colored glass still slinks its way past the gift shop before disgorging you into the soaring glass-enclosed Crystal Room. And when you get there, you still stop and stare.

After more than three decades in this incarnation, Tavern on the Green remains a sight to behold. But the restaurant never bestirred itself to become more than a spectacle, even as a gastronomic revolution gripped the United States, which makes its startling collapse into bankruptcy last week a little easier to fathom.

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